Shifting may seem complicated, but it is actually pretty simple. The bike's gears
make it easy to adjust effort so you can keep pedaling comfortably
regardless of what the terrain throws at you.
Bikes
are not shifted like cars, though. You do not start in first gear, shift
into second, and so on. You shift by how your legs and lungs feel. And,
just as the car engine is most efficient when run at a steady speed,
your body (the bike's engine) is happiest when you are pedaling at a
comfortable pace. For most people that pace begins at about
one complete pedal revolution per second or slightly faster (sixty
to seventy rpm, which may sound fast, but is easy to maintain over many
miles). Experienced riders with a conditioned cardio-vascular
system can increase the pace of their spin to even higher levels,
again related to proper shifting and choice of gearing.
Understand
that, for the most part, there is no right or wrong gear to be in.
Use the one that feels right for your legs and lungs at the time. And,
unless you live where all the rides are pancake flat, shift a lot to
keep your rpm's steady and pace yourself. If your legs ache, but you are
not breathing at a rate consistent with your speed, or if your legs
feel great but you are nearly out of breath, you need to shift to a different gear.
How
do you actually shift? You probably already know that you must pedal in
order to shift on a derailleur-equipped bike. But it is also important
to ease the pressure off the pedals during the gear change. This makes
the shift smoother and prevents possible drivetrain glitches. In order
to do this on a hill, anticipate the steep section and shift into an
easier gear before you get there.
Of
course, shifting is done by moving the shift levers. You decide to
shift when your legs are working too hard or spinning too fast because
conditions have changed. All you need to know is whether you want to
make it easier or harder to pedal and by how much.
Next,
you choose which lever to shift (never shift them simultaneously). The
right lever makes small differences in pedaling effort and is usually
clicked once or several times. Shifting this lever moves the chain
across the cluster of cogs on the rear wheel. On a newer bike, there
are eight or nine of these and they only vary size-wise a couple of
teeth. The larger the cog, the easier it is to pedal and vice versa.
Contrarily,
the left lever, makes larger differences in effort. Use it to make it
considerably harder or easier to pedal. Operating this lever moves the
chain between the two or three chainrings on the front of your
drivetrain. Here, the larger the ring, the harder it is to pedal and vice versa.
So,
a short ride might go something like this: You roll out of your garage
and start pedaling and find the going too difficult. You click the
right lever once but it is still way too hard, so you shift the left
lever, which makes it much easier and lets you spin your legs at a good
pace. You cruise toward the lake feeling fine but then your legs get
heavy. A headwind! You shift the right lever twice and find a good
rhythm again. Toward the back side of the lake, there is a short steep
climb. You shift the right lever each time the hill steepens
until you are in your easiest gear. Cresting the hill, it is all downhill
home with a tailwind. Woo-hoo! You pick up speed quickly. You could
coast but you want to keep pedaling to add a little speed and get the
workout. You shift the right lever but need a larger change so you
shift the left and head for home at supersonic speed.
Shifting
becomes natural with a little practice and most cyclists do not even
think about it. They just pedal along and shift whenever it feels
right, selecting a gear by instinct. They shift constantly, too --
maybe 100-plus times on a rolling fifteen-mile ride. If you can do that
on your rides, you will get the hang of shifting quick. If you would like us
to explain shifting in person come on in and we will be glad to help. |