First, check your chainrings (sometimes called "chainwheels") to makesure they need replacing. In general,
the rings you ride in most wear quickest and usually they are also the smaller rings. So check those regularly.

To do this, simply inspect the teeth shapes closely. Because the
smaller rings wear fastest, there is a good chance the large rings will
be in good condition, which allows comparing the teeth on the large
ring with the teeth on the ring you think may be worn out. If the teeth
look smaller and hooked, it is a sign that the chainring is worn out.
However, do not worry if a few teeth on each side of the chainring
appear smaller than the others. On some rings they are actually made that way to act as
"shifting gates," an innovation that improves shifting. As long as the majority of
the teeth look full and resemble the ones on a good chainring, the ring is okay.
Sometimes
you will feel a worn chainring after you have replaced the chain. There
will be a roughness in the pedal stroke because the new chain
will not mesh perfectly with the old teeth. Another symptom of a worn
chainring, usually on a mountain bike, is something called "chain
suck." This is when the chain gets pulled up by the worn teeth on the
ring while you are pedaling and gets jammed between the chainring and
the frame. Usually, replacing the ring solves the problem.
In an
extreme case, a completely worn-out ring can even allow the chain to
skip when you are pedaling hard or climbing. What happens is the teeth
can no longer hold the chain under pressure and the links actually lift
up and over the teeth creating an annoying and dangerous hiccup in your
pedaling, which is best described as "skipping" for the way the pedals
jerk forward when the chain slips.
It is also possible to ruin a
chainring by bending it while trying to ride over a log or
railroad tracks. Or even by getting your pants caught in the teeth.
If
you are not sure whether your chainring(s) needs replacing, we are happy
to take a look and let you know. Chainrings vary in design and size.
You can just bring your old one in for us to match up, or if you would
rather, you can look at your chainring and give us the following details:
- The brand and model and type, such as Shimano (brand) XT (model) 9-speed (type).
- The number of teeth on the chainring (usually stamped on the side; or you can simply count).
- The number of chainring bolts (usually 4 or 5).
- The Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD). This is the measurement of an imaginary circle on the chainring bisecting all the bolt holes.
The best way to determine this is by measuring the exact distance (center to center) between 2 adjacent bolt holes. Then find that number
on the correct chart below to determine the BCD for your chainring.
BCD chart for 5-bolt chainrings
Bolt to Bolt (measure center to center) |
Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) |
| 32.9mm |
56mm |
| 34.3mm |
58mm |
| 43.5mm |
74mm |
| 55.4mm |
94mm |
| 64.7mm |
110mm |
| 76.4mm |
130mm |
| 79.5mm |
135mm |
| 84.6mm |
144mm |
BCD chart for 4-bolt chainring
Bolt to Bolt (measure center to center) |
Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) |
| 41mm |
58mm |
| 45.3mm |
64mm |
| 48.1mm |
68mm |
| 73.6mm |
104mm |
| 79.2mm |
112mm |
If you have any questions at all, just ask and we will be happy to help! |